[Dave Taylor]

Hi all,

We are looking at getting our first polytunnel. We are wanting something around 6x3m, so only small scale.

However! We live in a very windy place, about a third of a mile away from the coast on the Isle of Anglesey, North Wales. There are relatively sheltered places we can put it, however wind will still be a big factor. Can anybody recommend a good tunnel they have used themselves?

We are currently looking at this one, if anyone has any advice that would be brilliant.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-3m-Polytunnel-Greenhouse-Poly-Tunnel-Pollytunnel-Galvanised-Frame-/161769604251?hash=item25aa38449b

Thank you
Dave

[Fleecewife]

We used to be at RAF Valley so we know all about the wind there, rolling fog etc .  We now live on a windy hilltop in Scotland.
The first things I see when I look at your suggested tunnel is that it's very flimsy and whatever you use to tie it to the ground is going to be flimsy too.
Our chosen tunnel is by Northern Polytunnels, and it has extra large diameter, sturdy hoops, corner bracers, crop bars etc, all to give extra strength.  The hoops are set into concrete dollies, and the whole thing is set within a 6m high windbreak mesh fence, plus now a high hedge.  In spite of all this, in our first winter we lost the cover (extra thick polythene) in a gale, and it twisted the 10x10cm base rail with the sail force of the flapping polythene.
Our tunnel is bigger than yours at 7x14 meters, but the principles are the same.

I would recommend that you go for the most expensive and sturdiest tunnel you can afford, pay particular attention to the strength of the hoops, internal bracing and how it's anchored.  Another thing is the door opening.
There's nothing more disappointing than your tunnel blowing away so you lose your crops 

   http://www.northernpolytunnels.co.uk/hobby-range/polytunnels/hobby-polytunnel-kit/super-strength-polytunnel.html

I just looked up this link for you.  It's many times more expensive than the one you were looking at, although you could make it cheaper by making your own doors, but I would say it's worth it.  What do you think?

[chrismahon]

Here it can also be very windy and there are no wind turbines for that reason. Our friend's polytunnel is held down with flexible steel wire over the outside which is connected to very large concrete blocks. He also has concrete weights connected to the substantial hoops inside. He lives in quite a sheltered spot and told us we had "absolutely no chance" of keeping a polytunnel intact because we live on the top of a hill. So I agree with Fleecewife, if you are going to get one it needs to be really strong or your money has been wasted, as well as all the time on the produce. It will also need careful locating I think.

[DavidandCollette]

We have a northern polytunnel as a sheep/goat pen plus storage plus two Premier polytunnels for veg. Both are standing up to the wind where we are. Its very flat and open so they have had to stand up to some battering. I would agree that you should get the best you can afford

[RoyC]

These are more expensive but lifespan appears to be much longer than normal polytunnels.  http://www.kedergreenhouse.co.uk/

[ScribbleUk]

Yes agree with the above comments - if it has to stand up to the wind then invest in a good quality brand.  We use Firsttunnels, but have added extra bracing in a number of places.

An alternative view point would be not to expose it to high winds in the first place, either with a good shelter belt, or since it is relatively small just take it down before the winter, and re-erect in the spring.  If its not being used over the winter then maybe it can be dismantled easily enough and stored.

[Dave Taylor]

Brilliant, thanks everyone for your comments. We will look at the three suggested

[UPoneacre]

We're not too far away from you 900 ft up in the Cambrians. We made the mistake of buying a similar sized polytunnel to what you plan to use, but bought from a garden centre. It looked robust enough there, but didn't last the year out. Mind you, 50mph + winds don't occur too often here but tested the strength of connections between cover and frame to destruction pretty easily.
We're now looking for something better and slightly bigger so taking on board the comments from others above.

[stufe35]

You can quite simply make any poly tunnel capable of withstanding higher winds.  Some makers websites give guidance you can look it up. From memory normal spacing between hoops is 6ft. Increase the strength by decreasing the spacing.  I think web sites say in windy areas reduce spacing to 5ft.  There is nothing to stop you reducing this even more to say 4ft.

Obviously you'd buy a larger tunnel but construct it smaller. Speak to the sellers I'm sure they'll sell you extra hoops without issue.

Giving it protection by placing in the lee of other buildings or by planting hedging around is another way to add protection.

I have seen a sheet of polythene last ten years plus on my dads poly tunnel in the Lake District.  The key is to fit the sheet tightly, you need a calm day. Use hot spot tape on all the places where the polythene touches the metal frame, and wrap all connections with tape to stop rubbing wearing through the sheet.
No reason you can't erect a tunnel that will last years.
I helped put up a tunnel at my dads when I was 18, I'm now 47 and its on it 3rd sheet.
Me and the missus put our own about 6 x3m 5 or so years ago.

I've just looked at the link for Northern poly tunnels posted above...it shows the 5ft or 6ft I mentioned. If it's really windy as I say consider reducing hoop spacing even further. You only buy the frame once. The crop bars also add considerably to the rididity of the frame and are actually very useful for hanging things from , supporting stakes etc. We have them in ours.  Buy thick grade polythene. Also consider fitting the green netting over the top. This provides shading, but also is very effective at pulling down on the polythene sheet and tightening it even further.id advise this strongly. The netting they use is actually just like debris netting as used by the construction industry around scaffolds. So can be found more cheaply at builders merchants / screw fix and the like. - Well that's what we used anyway and its very effective. We stitched using string (non rot type) a number of lengths together to get the size we needed.

I would go for burying the polythene in the ground rather than the base rail type design, that way you are not relying on the strength of the frame or size of foundation to hold the thing down; instead the polythene holds the whole thing down. When you do this all you need to do is drive the pipes which receive the hoops into the ground with a sledge hammer, no concrete required. Downside you have to dig a trench right round the base, but it is a much stronger arrangement.

cheers  stu

[Dave Taylor]

Thanks a lot for the advice Stu, it is the most probable option we have, and we will definately use your advice. Hopefully I will be able to get it started soon, and post a few pictures as we go along.

Thanks a lot
Dave