Author Topic: Wasps Wiped Out Hives (Read 3443 times)

uksfdawn · « **on:** September 10, 2015, 03:38:11 pm »

2 weeks I had five active hives, 2 were small colonies late small swarms that I intended to combine today, just been down to my litttle apiary and the 2 small colonies have been wiped out by wasps, both hives were full of dead bees and lots of wasps, I guess the warm weather this week has brought the wasps out for there late summer sugar fix I have sprayed inside the two hives with wasp killer and closed then up will deal with them next week, the other three hives are strong colonies so I dont expect to lose them, I have reduced there door ways down to help them.
We have destroyed any wasps nest we have found being made but unfortunatly neighbours who have had two big wasp nests in there barns wouldn't have them destroyed I can only assume its the adults from these nests that have done the damage.
Nothing can be done about it just try again next year.

waterbuffalofarmer · « **Reply #1 on:** September 10, 2015, 03:43:28 pm »

Am really sorry to hear about that. Couldn't you just bill the neighbours for the lost bees, if they won't get rid of the wasps nests?

Bionic · « **Reply #2 on:** September 10, 2015, 03:44:03 pm »

OH has lots of wasp traps around the hives. He came in to 'reload' this morning

uksfdawn · « **Reply #3 on:** September 10, 2015, 04:02:07 pm »

what kind of traps is he using please

Bionic · « **Reply #4 on:** September 10, 2015, 04:33:38 pm »

They are nothing special, just old jam/pickle jars with a hole in the lid. They are attracted to whats inside and can't get out again

Caroline1 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 10, 2015, 04:47:35 pm »

I lost a hive to wasps this year as well, annoying little buggers

I think I need to put some wasp traps out as I keep getting them in the kitchen at the moment.

cloddopper · « **Reply #6 on:** September 12, 2015, 07:30:00 pm »

Just a tip for those that don't know
if you make a slightly wedge shaped wooden bar that totally sits across & in the hive entrance and blocks it off all you need to do is them cut three or four individual channels across the bar to what is known as a bee space dimension ( 3/8 x 3/8 of an inch if memory serves me correct) & remove the bit of wood needed to make the groove . This makes a hive entrance block which reduces access down to four bee spaces that are set apart so only one be can get in at a time and is much more easily defended than a fully open one .

I burnt the hive number on its own hive block as I had so many hives ( 100 plus all told ) many had the floors made in slightly differing sizes . Sometimes it was a job to get the right block for the hive .. the numbering of the hives & blocks solved that problem .

You'll also need to ensure that the top hive vents have an anti wasp mesh over it and that there are no gaps around your frames where wasps can get in .

The time is also here for you to get ready to fit mouse guards . These are strips of pre punched galv thin steel sheet or aluminium with something like 15 to 20 x 9mm holes across it .
Fit the guards with big flat headed drawing pins once the first frost is forecast & remove the hive blocks .
They not only help keep mice out they also allow a better air movement through the hive , this helps to stop the hive sweating in cold weather when the bees are consuming their stores and producing moisture and helps prevent the bees from going mouldy & dying out due to disease caused by a weakened mouldy nest.